Dial detail of an Audemars Piguet automatic perpetual calendar moon phase in yellow gold with diamond-set bezel on matching bracelet.

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Audemars PiguetAudemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar

Name: Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar
Brand: Audemars Piguet
SKU: 5548

1978-1980's

Price on Application

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Very Good

A classical perpetual calendar wristwatch from Audemars Piguet, reference 5548, housed in an 18-carat yellow gold case. Produced during the 1990s through early 2000s, this model represents the Le Brassus manufacture's devotion to traditional complication watchmaking in a time when such pieces were still largely hand-finished.

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Collector Notes

Audemars Piguet established its reputation for perpetual calendar wristwatches in the 1950s with the legendary ref. 5516, and the ref. 5548 stands as a direct descendant of that lineage. Introduced in the early 1990s, this reference retained the classically proportioned round case and clean dial architecture that defined the house style before the arrival of more contemporary designs. The perpetual calendar mechanism, one of horology's most revered complications, automatically accounts for months of varying length and leap years without manual intervention until the year 2100.

Inside, Audemars Piguet employed variations of the Calibre 2120 family, a movement first developed in collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre in the late 1960s. Measuring just 2.45mm in height, it remains one of the thinnest automatic movements ever created. For perpetual calendar variants, the manufacture added a module that drove the day, date, month, and leap year displays whilst preserving the movement's remarkable slimness. This allowed the ref. 5548 to wear elegantly despite the complexity within, typically measuring between 36mm and 38mm across the bezel depending on configuration.

The ref. 5548 emerged during a pivotal moment in mechanical watchmaking. The quartz crisis had subsided, and collectors were rediscovering haute horlogerie complications. Yellow gold examples from this period represent a transitional aesthetic, bridging the more ornate sensibilities of the 1980s with the restrained classicism that would define the late 1990s. The warm tone of 18-carat yellow gold lends these watches a certain gravitas, particularly as contemporary taste has shifted toward white metals.

For collectors, the ref. 5548 offers an accessible entry into Audemars Piguet perpetual calendars compared to earlier references or the more widely known Royal Oak variants. These watches were produced in modest quantities and retain the traditional round case that appeals to purists. The combination of slim proportions, yellow gold warmth, and mechanical sophistication positions this reference as a thoughtful acquisition for those building a collection around classical complications from established Swiss houses.

Specifications

Closer look

Brand:: Audemars Piguet
Model:: Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar
Movement:: Automatic
Functions:: perpetual calendar (date, day, month, leap year), hours, minutes, centre seconds, moon phase
Features:: The slim automatic perpetual calendar movement allows this 18-carat yellow gold wristwatch to maintain elegant proportions on the wrist whilst delivering one of horology's most complex complications.
Case:: 18K Yellow Gold
Dial:: White
Bracelet:: 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet
Box & papers:: no box no papers

The watch appears to be in working order, though prospective buyers should anticipate a full service given the age and complexity of the perpetual calendar mechanism. The yellow gold case shows signs consistent with wear over two to three decades, including surface scratches and minor marks to the bezel and lugs that would be expected from regular use. The dial layout and printing appear correct for the reference, though we recommend in-hand inspection to assess any patina or ageing to the luminous material. No box or papers accompany this example, which is not uncommon for watches of this vintage that have passed through multiple hands.

Frequently asked

What is the reference number?

The reference number is 5548 (Audemars Piguet).

What year is this watch?

This piece dates to 1990s-2000s.

What movement does it have?

Automatic

What bracelet or strap comes with it?

18K Yellow Gold Bracelet

Does it come with box and papers?

no box no papers

What is the condition?

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